Diamond Watches London

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1R-001

Patek Nautilus ref. 5712/1R-001

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is amongst some of horology’s best-known and most beloved watches. Designed by the fabled watch designed Gerald Genta, its porthole-inspired octagonal case and horizontally embossed dial form the bedrock on which its entire aesthetic is built upon. Blending a sports watch design with Patek’s love of complications, the Nautilus has long acted as a vehicle to demonstrate Patek’s impressive high-end watchmaking and the ref. 5712 has undoubtedly been one of the most popular references to fuse these two sides of Patek Philippe, with its immediately recognisable asymmetric dial and construction being perfectly complimented by its various complications.

Powered by the cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, it brings together a total of 236 components that work in total harmony as it displays the time, the seconds via a seconds subdial, the date via a pointer date subdial, which also houses a moon phase indicator, and a power reserve indicator. With such a cacophony of complications, the ref. 5712’s display is one of the most unique in the Nautilus’ collection, with its moon phase indicator adding an interesting visual dimension to the ref. 5712’s aesthetic alongside its intriguingly skewed layout.

However, as useful and stunning as the ref. 5712 is, its precious metal variants have always been confined to a leather strap, which has removed the Nautilus’ iconic integrated bracelet from the equation. While we did have a ref. 5712R in stock last year on an 18kt rose gold bracelet that Patek Philippe had fitted it with themselves; as per the Patek Philippe papers provided with the watch stated, we had always hoped that Patek would launch a stock version of the ref. 5712 in precious metal on a bracelet to match, and just a few weeks ago, they did, the ref. 5712/1R-001, and we managed to get one in stock just weeks later.

Maintaining the ref. 5712’s 40mm diameter, 18kt rose gold construction and cal. 240 PS IRM C LU automatic movement, the new reference answers our prayers here in DWL and features the Nautilus’ iconic integrated bracelet. Alongside this evolution to the ref. 5712R’s aesthetic is a new dial that swaps the old reference’s black brown dial with a new sunburst brown dial that seems to blend in with its 18kt rose gold surroundings and create a monochromatic visual that is genuinely stunning.

Standing an impressively thin 8.52mm tall, this incredible watch is just as comfortable on the wrist as its predecessor, but with the additional heft of its bracelet, it is all the more luxurious. Of course, with how new and desirable the ref. 5712/1R-001 is, we weren’t able to keep it in stock for all too long, but with how impressive it is, we will certainly do our best to get another example in our showroom as soon as possible.