Best watches to buy today from Rolex, Cartier and Audemars Piguet

The post-pandemic boom is distant in our rear view mirrors, wait lists for hot watches from Rolex and Audemars Piguet are shortening, sales for new watches from the industrialised groups fell significantly last year and secondary market prices continue to fall.

Authorised dealers and secondary market traders are all looking for bright spots amid the gloom, and Danny Shahid from secondary market specialist Diamond Watches London, believes there are strong reasons to keep buying fine timepieces.

You just need to know where to look.

6 of the best vintage watches

Vintage steel Rolex price rise

Over the last few years, the vintage Rolex market has been quite slow to see noteworthy gains.

While some models went up in value between 2018 to 2022, these price increases were far smaller and less erratic than those experienced by new models. This muted pace may well explode this year.

Icons like the Submariner, Daytona and GMT-Master remain sought-after, but rare configurations or examples in excellent condition will rule the roost.

In the same way that younger generations of collectors powered previous market conditions, it seems likely they will drive the prices for the vintage market too.

With increased awareness for vintage watches through social media platforms as both an investment and status symbol, this may well be the year that these iconic models enter mainstream luxury culture, no longer confined to niche collectors.

Vintage hype

The market for vintage iterations of once-hyped models from the early 2020s will likely see a noticeable spike in demand this year.

Watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700, 39mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks like the ref. 5402, Vacheron Constantin’s 222, the Cartier Tank, and IWC Ingenieur offer a blend of heritage and modern appeal that will speak to today’s collectors.

Their relative accessibility will continue to diminish as examples get snapped up by collectors who want to achieve an aesthetic they are familiar with, but with the real deal instead of the modern reinterpretation.

Buyers will likely prioritise originality and condition above all else, with box and papers having an impact on the desirability of any given watch.

The 36mm sweet spot

There is no denying that smaller watches are back in vogue as brands have begun to realise that collectors don’t want huge gaudy watches any more.

This shift signals a move towards refined, understated elegance and a growing appreciation for compact dimensions.

The resurgence of the 36mm piece is influenced by historical precedence. Many iconic timepieces, such as early Rolex Datejusts and Day-Dates, were originally crafted in this size, making it a nostalgic choice for vintage enthusiasts seeking the “old money aesthetic”.

Brands have already begun responding to this demand by reintroducing classic designs in 36mm formats, such as Rolex with their Explorer collection, and other brands are following suit with new releases.

The decline of large watches

In the same vein, oversized timepieces are likely to face rapidly waning interest, except for those with purposeful designs that require their size.

These include the Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox, Richard Mille’s avant-garde creations, and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept models.

Their generous size is essential to pack these watches with technical ingenuity and horological prowess.

The downturn in demand for oversized watches may also prompt brands to innovate, creating bold designs within more compact dimensions.

However, that effect will not be felt until beyond 2025, given the amount of time these new watches will take to create, design, prototype, and produce.

Cartier’s impact

Our final prediction is that Cartier’s cultural resonance will continue to grow this year, and the brand’s modern offerings will likely remain stable in the market.

Cartier’s allure lies in its versatility and ability to blend vintage heritage with contemporary appeal.

From the timeless elegance of models like the Tank and Panthere to the bold geometry of the Santos and Pasha, Cartier’s designs resonate with a diverse audience.

In recent years, the brand has successfully cultivated a youthful following and this new generation of fans will likely continue to drive the brand’s popularity.

Vintage Cartier watches have enjoyed an extreme surge in popularity and price, but it seems likely that the market is approaching a peak.

Conclusion and credit

As prices stabilise and growth slows in the more desirable models, collectors may pivot towards overlooked models or unique variations that have escaped the market’s attention so far.

Published By WATCHPRO