New Rolex Releases

Where time itself seems to pause in anticipation, the grand unveiling of Rolex's novelties for 2024 at Watches & Wonders carried plenty of surprises, upsets and firsts. While this year's releases weren't as 'out there' as last year’s, Rolex has expanded its offering in an opulent manner, embracing total luxury. From a new full 18kt yellow gold variant of the Deepsea and a new platinum variant of the 1908, to a new diamond-set collection of Daytonas, this year has showcased Rolex's commitment to the higher end of the watch market. Our client services director, Danny Shahid, gives his reaction:

The GMT-Master II

Perhaps the most hotly-anticipated release was the launch of a new black and red bezel "Coke" GMT-Master II. Sadly it never arrived for Rolex, and it was instead introduced by Rolex's sister brand, Tudor. However, that doesn't mean Rolex didn't give us a new GMT-Master II variant. On the contrary, they actually released a new stainless steel GMT-Master II with a two-tone grey and black bezel, which adds a new take to the all-black bezel that was discontinued in 2019.

Offered with either the toolish Oyster bracelet, or the elegant Jubilee bracelet, this new GMT-Master II adds a toned-down vibe to the collection that was previously dominated by brighter bezel options like the Pepsi, Batman and Sprite. Prices are set at £9,350 for the Oyster bracelet version and £9,550 for the Jubilee bracelet model.

The Day-Date

In the realm of refined elegance, the Day-Date range sits on the throne of Rolex's offerings, and the collection has been expanded with new versions of the Day-Date 40 and Day-Date 36.

For the first time, the Day-Date 40 introduces an ombré dial to the collection in a slate grey. Offered in the 18kt Everose gold model, the finish sees the central grey colour fade to deep black along the dial periphery. This model breaks new ground with faceted, Roman numerals and index hour markers in 18ct pink gold, marking a continuation of a design ethos from the 1980s and a departure from the exclusive use of diamond-set hour markers on ombré dials.

Another innovation is the use of white mother-of-pearl on the dial of a white gold Day-Date 40 model, a first for Rolex. This design choice is complemented by ten baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers. The price range for these models spans from £30,700 to £60,900.

The 1908

Introduced as a brand new collection just last year, the 1908 has taken over from the Cellini collection as Rolex's resident dress watch collection, and it has been a huge success. A dress watch rooted in Rolex's heritage and modern capabilities as a watchmaker, it has everything a Rolex fan could want in a dress watch. This year Rolex has added a platinum variant to the collection with an ice blue dial (specific to platinum models) with a guilloche rice-grain motif, a testament to Rolex's commitment to the art of classic watchmaking. This model is offered at £26,700.

The Deepsea

Famed as one of the most robust and technically impressive dive watches on the market, the Deepsea is the ultimate tool watch, and Rolex has expanded the collection into the realm of pure luxury with a full 18kt yellow gold variant, surpassing the two-tone variant as the collection's most luxurious offering. Boasting a ceramic compression ring within the Ringlock system for enhanced waterproofing with a blue ceramic bezel and blue lacquer dial, this model, priced at £45,700, is as stunning as it is large and in charge.

The Daytona

For those drawn to the allure of racing, the Daytona is unparalleled compared to other modern chronograph sports watches. Adding to the new and improved reference they debuted last year, Rolex has added a variety of opulent gem-set precious metal variants boasting either traditional sunburst dials in silver and champagne or mother-of-pearl dials set with contrasting subdials. These models are offered in 18kt white, yellow and rose gold. They come with diamond-set bezels and are offered on precious metal or Oysterflex bracelets.

Prices range from £53,850 for the Oysterflex version to £61,450 for the Oyster bracelet model.

The Sky-Dweller

Lastly, for the new additions, we have the Sky-Dweller, which has also remained rather luxurious with its updates. Its 18kt gold variants have been given the option for a matching 18kt yellow gold Jubilee bracelet, whereas the only option previously was an Oyster bracelet. Offered in both Everose gold with a slate dial and yellow gold with a white dial, these watches represent the pinnacle of luxury for global travellers, priced at £45,400 and £43,000, respectively.

The Discontinuations

The trickier part of the new watch season, only a few glaringly obvious missing models are noticed this early. The Daytona' Le Mans' in white gold has been discontinued, but is seemingly replaced by a yellow gold model, according to sources inside Watches and Wonders. Additionally, the Yacht-Master II collection is discontinued across the board, and the Palm Fronds dial for the Datejust is similarly absent. However, rather notably, the Pepsi remains in production, at least officially, as supply to ADs from Rolex is likely to remain virtually non-existent, as per the last 6-9 months.

Want to see Danny's views on Watches & Wonder 2023?